This article originally written by Jane Shambra with the title "Hugo's: A Biloxi Tradition" for BNews Monthly, the monthly newsletter of the City of Biloxi. Photographs courtesy of the LHG Image Collection / Local History & Genealogy Department / Harrison County Library System unless otherwise specified.

There are many traditions on the Coast, such as the seafood festival and Mardi Gras that includes a connection to food. Food is nutritious, it can comfort you, and it can bring back memories. Now that our Mardi Gras season has ended and our yearning for king cakes has subsided, we enter into the Lenten season. Lent begins on the Wednesday after Mardi Gras, Ash Wednesday, and continues through to the day before Easter. It is a time when many focus on fasting or not eating as much and abstain from meat on Fridays. Often times, a local church fish fry or cheese pizza from a favorite restaurant would be the go-to for dinner.

Back in the Day

Before the days of “fast food,” high school students looked forward to outings at popular gathering places after Friday night football games, when they would meet up with friends to eat, listen to music, and sometimes dance. One very popular establishment in Biloxi’s restaurant history is Hugo’s. Founded by Hugo J. Rungo (1909-1993) in the 1950s, and said by some as the place where the French dressing on pizza craze originated, began in an alley and grew to be the favored spot for teenagers and families for decades.

The Beginning

Mr. Hugo was not a native Biloxian nor an Italian. He was, in fact, born in New York City of Polish and German parents. While stationed at Keesler Field in Biloxi, he loved our area so much he decided to make the area home after his time in the military. First, he worked as a “mixologist” for the Buena Vista, the Tivoli, and the Avalez hotels. After some time of saving money, Mr. Hugo, observing no Italian restaurants in the area, opened a local eatery and named it Hugo’s.

The Pizza Parlor

Pizza is what Hugo’s is most remembered for. In those days, folks called it “pizza pie.” Hugo’s menu not only featured traditional Italian foods, such as pizza, spaghetti, and spumoni ice cream, it included breakfast, Mexican, Chinese, po-boys, and an assortment of local seafood options. Mr. Hugo opened his first eatery in 1951 in the area between Howard Avenue and Jackson Street, where Merit Hospital now exists. He later moved to West Division Street and Porter Avenue. In 1959, the Daily Herald newspaper advertised two locations: Hugo’s Restaurant at Porter and Division and Hugo’s Pizza Palace at Lameuse and Division. Hugo’s Pizza Palace and Restaurant celebrated its formal opening on Saturday, March 21, 1959 and offered a new venue for parties and banquets. In 1959, Hugo’s specialties included Bar-B-Q, chili, and shrimp pizza which all had registered trademarks. He even had a catchy phrase, “Pizza is the Trend, Friend.” Although Mr. Hugo passed away in 1993, his restaurant stayed open until 2003. And, even though the building no longer stands, memories of pizza, good times, and dating at the restaurant are still remembered today!

Famous Tradition

When going to a local restaurant, diners have two major decisions: Do you want your po-boy dressed and pressed? And, do you want French dressing with your pizza? Many say the French dressing craze began at Hugo’s. In fact, Mr. Hugo kept a bottle of French dressing on the tables. When Biloxi students would visit the restaurant after school, they would order a slice of pizza, and often add “liquid cheese” or French dressing on their pizza. When longtime Hugo’s manager Hilda Ainsworth was asked about the craze, she was noted in an interview by saying “kids do weird things.” But did the craze really begin at Hugo’s? This unusual eating tradition seems to have been born in the 1950s at Hugo’s eatery: French dressing/Catalina dressing on pizza. There is no definitive day or person to give credit for our Coast tradition. One story tells about a patron asking for a free add-on and received a squeeze bottle of dressing resulting in an amazing trend. Another storyteller relates that back-in-the-day some chefs got into an argument in Hugo’s kitchen resulting in French dressing spread all over customers’ pizzas. A third remembrance related a convincing story about this tradition to its beginning by Keesler airmen who frequented Hugo’s on a regular basis. Finally, another version related the legend to airmen who requested liquid cheese for their pizza; thus, a squirt bottle of French dressing was offered and it was a success. And, a few thought the tradition began when someone asked for a free add-on to their pizza, and that’s the only option that was available.

The Memories

Memories of Hugo’s pizza goes beyond the food. Mr. Hugo’s patrons were not limited to locals. Famous celebrities often visited the eatery, including Jayne Mansfield, Pete Fountain, and even Elvis Presley. And, the memories go beyond food and famous personalities. Memories of pin ball machines which paid a nickel for each winning point, was a recollection.

The Man

Mr. Hugo was not only a restaurateur but an avid supporter of local sports teams. Hugo’s was a regular sponsor of bowling, softball, and golfing teams. Often, Mr. Hugo was recognized for organizing tournaments which would benefit worthy causes for the needs of children in the community. Mr. Hugo Rungo passed away in 1993 at the age of 83. Even though his building is no longer standing, the famous home-made pizza with French dressing tradition continues and so do the smiling reminiscent memories of days gone by. Pizza parlors across the Coast to this day often offer the add-on on tables and ask patrons if they wish to include this soothing liquid to their pizza order.

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